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Diary of a CEO · 2022-06-13

What No One Tells You About Success And Mental Health! - Building A $240M Dollar Empire!

Dermalogica founder Jane Wurwand on building a skincare empire, the cost of relentless work, and confronting buried trauma through therapy.

What No One Tells You About Success And Mental Health! - Building A $240M Dollar Empire!
The guest

Jane Wurwand: Scottish-born skin therapist and entrepreneur who co-founded the International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica with her husband Raymond, building it into a multi-hundred-million-dollar global skincare brand acquired by Unilever in 2015.

What this episode covers

Jane Wurwand traces her path from a fatherless childhood in Edinburgh to emigrating to South Africa, then building two skincare businesses in Los Angeles from $14,000 of self-funding. She explains how building community among isolated skin therapists drove her success, alongside fierce attention to detail and a philosophy of decisiveness. She is candid about the personal costs: lost friendships, no work-life balance, and self-sabotaged relationships. A turning point came when a Santa Barbara mudslide destroyed her home, triggering insomnia and anxiety that finally led her to therapy and to unpacking decades of buried grief.

The guest's own work

BookBy the guest

Skin in the Game

Jane Wurwand

“that's a quote taken from your book skin in the game yeah raymond that's raymond's phrase”— Steven Bartlett
ProductBy the guest

Dermalogica

Jane Wurwand

“we launched dermalogica in january of 1986 and that business generates hundreds of millions of dollars a year”— guest

Also referenced (named, not recommended)

ProductReferenced

Ambien

Sanofi

“i decided i was going to go talk to my doctor about sleeping tablets and i went and he recommended ambien and i'd never take an ambien”— guest

Big reveals from this episode

  • Jane's first marriage ended when her husband emptied her bank account and threw her cut-up clothes out a window; she vowed never to be that vulnerable again.
  • She admits the way she immigrated to the US was a 'slight loophole' using an inter-company transfer visa, since closed.
  • At a 1987 Glasgow industry conference her mic was switched off and she was asked to leave the stage after nine minutes for being too disruptive.
  • A massive boulder came through the master bedroom of their Santa Barbara house in a 2018 mudslide; they survived only because they had left for their daughter's birthday.
  • She went 41 nights with under four hours sleep before a psychiatrist told her she had an anxiety problem, not insomnia.
  • Her daughter Lucy, frightened by her phone-distracted mother, said she only wanted to give her a hug because she 'looked so cross', the tipping point.
  • Answering the closing question, Jane rates her self-love a 10 out of 10 after years of therapy and support.

Worth remembering

  • The International Dermal Institute trains over 100,000 skin therapists every year and remains the number one advanced training program in the industry.
  • The South African government offered assisted passage emigration for 40 pounds, which is how Jane left freezing England in 1977.
  • When she arrived in LA, salon owners preferred European-trained therapists because US training was only a few months versus several years in Europe.
  • California's state board license required only 600 hours (about four months) versus the two-to-three-year full-time training common in Europe.
  • Dermalogica was self-funded on $14,000 and remained highly profitable through to the 2015 Unilever acquisition.
  • Dermalogica deliberately avoided jars because bathroom airborne E. coli contaminates open cream containers.
  • The company made roughly a million dollars in its first year and grew to around 1,400 employees.
  • Jane's decision-making rule is to act once you have 70% of the information, never waiting for 100%.
  • Her hiring philosophy: +10 points for a right decision, 0 for a wrong one, but -10 for making no decision at all.